Sloooooow Sewing

Yes, I've been quiet here. And I'd like to regale you with stories of my adventures but alas the last 6 weeks have been spent nursing sick children and sick husband and sick self. Not much sewing happening at all.

But, I have made good progress on my Lonsdale dress. The sewalong just finished and I'm only halfway, but that's ok because I envisage finishing this weekend. I've seen some really beautiful dresses from the sewalong though!

Source: sewaholic.net via Jane on Pinterest

Sewing the Lonsdale has been rewarding because I've tried new things and learned a lot. I made my second ever muslin and my first major pattern alterations which included:

1. Taking in the centre front seam of the bodice under the bust to get a closer fit.
2. Taking a tapered horizontal tuck out of the back bodice to accommodate my sway back/scoliosis. This was the major revelation for me. It has really enhanced the fit of the dress on me and solved problems I commonly get with RTW dresses. And that's why we sew right?
3. Slashing and lapping the pattern on each side, about halfway between my armpit and my centre front where it was gaping. I was a bit annoyed about this one because I don't think I transfered the measurements from my musling properly and I still ended up with some gaping which I had to take out with a dart on either side which I think look a bit odd. And in retrospect I probably should have sewn a smaller size and done an FBA...but I am right on 2 inches difference between my bust and my upper bust measurement.

Anyway, I am pretty pleased with the fit of the bodice and it gives me shape with no bra which I was surprised about.

This was the first time I underlined a dress too. I am using a cotton voile which is semi-sheer so I underlined it with cotton batiste which is nice and light.

Tasia's sewalong was great. She added in all sorts of tutorials on fitting, different seam finishes, hand-sewing, underlining...It has been brilliant!

P.S. Wondering what happened to my Sewaholic Crescent Skirt? I finished it, and I wear it a lot! I'm going to make another one for summer and this time hopefully get it right.

Crescent Skirt Sewalong: WADDER

Ok, so in keeping with my aims to improve my skill and learn more about 'fitting' I embarked on the Sewaholic Crescent Sewalong. I chose this particular sewalong for several reasons:

1) I am a classic pear-shape and Tasia designs for the pear. Sweet.
2) I am breast-feeding so dresses are kind of no-go in terms of access and also my boobs will shrink in the next 6 months.
3)Tasia knows what she's doing so I KNEW I would learn stuff.

Now, I tried to follow everything to the letter. I tried to not take any short-cuts despite my time-poorness. I made a muslin of the yoke and sewed VERY CAREFULLY. Ok, confession. I didn't sew a muslin of the whole skirt or insert the zipper which I probably should have, but the size 14 fit me to perfection. I think my waist measurement was about 1/2" larger than the measurement on the pattern but I am using a stretch denim so I thought firmer was better. I fitted the yoke firmly, taking in a full seam allowance where the zipper should be. The fit was firm but not pulling and the side seams were bang on my hips.

I pre-washed my fabric, I pressed and tried not to pull as I 'ironed'. I carefully measured the exact seam allowance and had a sticky marker to make sure I kept to it. When I did the French seams I measure again to make sure I was doing 1/4" (not that that effected the yoke at all.)

Today I skipped ahead a little and sewed in the zipper. When I tried the skirt on (I haven't clipped the seam of the yoke and facing or hemmed it) it was TOO BIG. Not a little bit but about 2 inches too big. WHAT DID I DO WRONG.

After cursing a lot, I remeasured my waist and it appears I have lost 2 inches off my waist in one month. Ok, so either I really did or I mismeasured. I should have made a whole size down.

What can I do to rescue my WADDER?!?

Crescent Skirt

Source: http://sewaholic.net/sewing-pattern-store/1101-crescent-skirt/

I bought another pattern. I said I wasn't going to until I had some more finished projects but this one looks good. The Crescent Skirt by Sewaholic is made especially with the pear-shape in mind -- which just happens to be absolutely me. And there is a sew-along happening for it too. Combined with the great place the Aussie dollar is in right now, I think this was an astute buy and will be pushing in on the queue.

I think View A might be nice for Autumn/Winter in a fine wale corduroy like this brown and blue polka dot cord from fabrics.com.

Kaufman 21 Wale Corduroy
Source: http://www.fabric.com